Thursday, September 17

Not all dervishes are whirling


Our last day in Istanbul. What we've learned so far:-
1. Forget about beach towel stereotypes, get down to breakfast early
or the Germans nab the butter.
2. Don't sleep with your windows open when you live next door to a
mosque.
3. A carpet salesman never just wants to give you apple tea - and no
that's my mother not my sister.
4. Never say to a man with a stringed instrument "Do you play"? (I
should really know this one by now).
5. Ice cream can be eaten with a knife and fork.
6. Don't follow a man with a suitcase assuming he's going to the
airport (cf: Hell's Angel and Milk Bar in Epping Forest).
7. When visiting Istanbul stay longer.

Tuesday, September 15

La Revedere Romania


So anyone who tells you Romania is only one hour ahead because of British summer time... Sprinted for train at Bucharesti Nord and made it without skinning any teeth (?) The Istanbul Express wasn't much bigger than the slow train to Nairn - 2 carriages. With one foot on the crumbling concrete platform and one on the trembling boards of a rickety wooden cattle wagon we quizzed the guard with our best Romanian. Sleeper hasn't arrived you say? Can only take you as far as Gorna Oryakhovtsa? Oh that Gorna Oryakhovtsa, with the Hilton, ATM s, oh and of course connecting trains... And which country did you say that was in... Dragged a reluctant AXPK90 from the moving train trying to convince her Michael Palin only got a bed for the night because (a) a production team of 20 (b) he was a Python and (c) muchos dinaros. Finally admitted defeat and headed for airport - not before AXPK had negotiated an overland cab fair of Euros 1,000 with the local gypsies.

Friday, September 11

Woken at 2 am by the border police trying to hammer the door down. AXpk90 told them to go away (thinking they were drunks she says). Came back with reinforcements and insisted on passport check - those pesky police. Arrived unfrisked at Bucharesti Nord and ran the gauntlet of dodgy cab drivers. Managed to get a bona fide one. Confused us though saying Wednesdays were always this busy. Didn't like to tell him it was Friday. The Romanian Knowledge seems to consist of stopping many people and asking directions. Finally made it to Moxa Hotel - beds in the shade of a precariously large and ostentatious chandelier, staff lovely and very accommodating - at least four came to help us work the coffee machine in our room. Dined at The Hilton and wandered round Revolution Square looking for bullet holes before nightcap in hotel bar. Catch the Istanbul Express tomorrow (though if that's express I wouldn't want the slow one) - 20 hrs! Look out for more border police action.

Thursday, September 10

Gnite Vienna


Lying in my bunk Bucharest bound watching the Hungarian nightscape fly past. Squeezed in one last bratwurst before departure then dined on red wine and paprika crisps - you don'tget much for exotic than that. AXpk90's on her Nintendo and what started as a small gathering seems to have escalated to a full blown party in the corridor outside our cabin. Roll on Romania.

"Did' Vienna - well went to Opera and ate loads of lardy cakes. Tried to visit the toy museum but the owner of the clock museum told us it had been closed these last three years now. "Why?" We asked, having already stepped into the pages of Grimm. Because the private owner died... No doubt found face down in a pile of wood shavings his favourite chisel buried deep in his back and tiny tiny footprints leading away from the scene of the crime...Hehehehehe

Wednesday, September 9

Compulsory fries

Sitting in Bruxelles Midi waiting for the Thalys to depart for Cologne. AXpk90 is keeping me (and most of departures) entertained by playing 'chase the plum on polished floor' - AXpk90: 0 Plums: 2 Brussels charming but not enough to time to explore, or try all the beers! Conversed with Americans, Australians & English. Sandwiched between Glaswegians and Russians at breakfast - not a sniff of an Hercule Poirot! Hit list (in order of importance - or bullets left) ; The Man in Seat 61 with Michael Palin a very close second, maybe if they were standing really close...